Thursday, October 27, 2016

Mission Exploration


People always end up debating whether they are a sea person or a hill person. I, on the other hand, can proudly say that I'm one of the most ardent followers of the great Poseidon as are my fellow peeps. There is something about the ocean though; the calmness of it, the depth of it or the torrential lapping, that makes you feel right at home. The ocean has forever been my weakness and when it comes to sandy shores, scintillating Goa is one of the places that runs through your mind (other options include Kovalam, Kerala or Diu or Bora Bora or Maldives or Ko Samui....possibilities are endless).  Even though I’m still contemplating how I want to write this blog out, as in should I proceed day wise or beach wise, I think I’ll just go with flow. 


The first thing to do when you are planning a trip to Goa is to choose the right season for your visit. If you think that it's an all year around affair, think again. Last time, I visited Goa sometime in April and I wouldn’t suggest that particular time for reasons very simple, it was DAMN HOT and ZERO HOT MEN. For that matter, October (even though it's the start of the season) there isn't much crowd and it gets pretty hot in the afternoons. But still the season begins to set in so you don’t end up missing certain places, which are operational during the season and but of course the best part is not to get stuck during the rains. If you are a avid traveler I suggest you plan an itinerary, a sneak look at ours for reference if you need some inspiration. The sample itinerary is quite extensive, just because we wanted to explore the place as much as we could (and no, we are not crazy hipsters).





Since there was so much of Goa that I hadn’t explored the last time I was there, I decided to really invest my energy in planning (yes OCD hits me every now and then), and we ended up exploring a whole lot of North Goa. There are still places that we missed due to the time crunch but hey it's not like it's a one time trip anyway right.

Figure it out!
When anyone talks of Goa, you know what that usually means, and that usually is - "just head to the beach dude or relax dude". But there are two types of holidays, one in which you just chill (which I did the last time) and one where you soak in the destination in its entirety (which I did this time). Guaranteed to be stressful, though such vacations let you experience a destination like it's meant to. You do not visit the place as a tourist, no sir, you become a part of the city. So, let’s start from the beginning.


Leave your foot prints behind!

The best way to travel in Goa I would suggest is to hire a vehicle and drive around. We drove about 500 kms in this trip and it was totally worth it. You can hire a scooty but be comfortable in driving around in it because we did witness a couple of accidents and hence the tip. Also, if you are a group of people, especially an odd number, do hire a car, you know, more rational.




One thing I realized while driving around in Goa is that if the GPS says 5 Minutes, it literally is 5 minutes unlike Delhi which has traffic for 3 mins and 2 minutes’ worth of time, so I suggest if it’s a long drive, prep yourself well. You know get the perfect music ready, plenty of water and snacks and oh yeah KEEP THE CAR CHARGER WITH YOU. 



Also as suggestions are happening, hire a small car (even though I was dying to drive Thar - such a bad ass car that is) but it was a good call since the roads are pretty narrow with lots of twists & turns, and unless you plan on getting stuck, you better opt for a small car. The roads near the beach are practically mud and you may end up having a bit of an off-road experience, so drive well and not under the influence of alcohol. 




But one of the things that you must not visit is as you drive through the streets, you cannot, rather should enjoy and fall in love with the Villas that make the place even more architecturally breathtaking, scenic and splendid. Such grandiose places to live, it's almost too beautiful to live in. 



Day 1, was chaotic because you know being girls we needed more than a week to pack (especially when you’re heading to the beach), the shopping of course started even before the bookings, and finally when the D-day arrived, pick-ups happened, which again is something that am sure at least the driver of our cab enjoyed the most. The trip to our destination was totally filled with charged energy, that almost was felt by everyone. In fact, we were so in the Goa mood that even the cabin crew knew and asked if they might join in.

So, coming back to mission mode, let’s begin with temples in Goa (Yeah, you heard me right), you’ll be thinking right at this very moment, is this girl crazy? I kid you not but the Hindu culture is as deeply rooted in Goa as is Christianity. We could only manage one temple though, the famous Shanta Durga temple as we didn’t want to visit any after that but it was a beautiful temple with brilliant craftsmanship. Quite a known temple, if you are a devout Hindu (MUST VISIT).



In case you want to visit more temples, a list for reference (highlighted ones are the famous ones) maybe because of historical reasons or the architectural beauty and most definitely if you are a history freak. The only other temple we saw was the Rudreshwar temple in Harvalem Falls but it's under renovation so you cannot really look around.



Our beautiful abode this time around was The Tamarind. A beautiful boutique hotel with every bit of the sea and the sun amalgamated into elegance - That's Tamarind for you. A quiet place with gorgeous Greek inspired architecture.  It's a haven for relaxation and fun. Closer to Anjuna beach and St. Micheal's church, the property is over 100 years old and is the perfect villa that you can spend some time in. The place is known to host gigs and the staff is quite courteous (who even offer to help arrange some weed for you :p). 



The suite we stayed at had a gorgeous pool view with a patio that you can chill. Service is exemplary and the best thing is that since it is a boutique hotel it helps you settle in better, there aren't any snooty rich folks. We loved our room, it was just this pleasant shade of the sun. Comfy beds, all of the amenities needed, though the only thing I did miss was a bath tub.



The location of Tamarind is quite central and from the hotel you can reach a total of 4-5 beaches in under 20 mins (by car, even though they do offer free bikes). The food is yummy but that shall be covered in another blog. The place is known for its desserts though (THE BANOFFEE PIE is a must try). Breakfast is a time where you can enjoy the serenity of the place, indulge in finger licking food and charge yourself for the day. There is a lady who plays the sitar and you actually can feel your senses calming down and you enjoy the ambience and the food more. The owner is quite a social lady who makes you feel right at home, and we got special attention as always :p




One of the cutest little things about this place is the concept of a Wish Bowl. You are supposed to pick out a message at the end of your trip, a token ( or advice or a guidance) that you can take with you when you leave the place and trust me it was apt for everyone of us.




Another glorious thing about any place situated right next to the sea is the opportunity to go on a cruise. Whether it's Kerala backwaters or gliding away in a Gondola in Venice or sun bathing on a yacht, whatever be your fancy. A cruise in Goa offered by Goa Tourism like a one-time visit thing, which you can avoid totally as it is quite substandard (actually below average). We went ahead with the Dinner cruise (wrong choice), the entertainment was quite boring, the DJ very very boring, the food – horrible. Entertainment was okay...ish.



If you really want to go for a cruise, suggest you take a boat ride instead, because no matter what said and done the feeling to be cruising along with a night breeze is amazing, I suggest you opt for the sunset cruise instead. It’s an hour long cruise and you may end up enjoying the sunset (not really an idyllic place to click pictures) but you will love the feeling of breeze caressing your skin, playing with your hair and merging with the rhythm of the ocean.




Coming back to the main part of the Goa visit - THE BEACHES. When it comes to the ocean, there is no end to writing about what all it makes you experience. Each beach has a very different experience and an ambiance attached with it. The most popular beaches in Goa are plenty but I guess it totally depends on what your motive is. For me, I like secluded, picturesque beaches so you can truly center yourself and enjoy the beauty of the ocean and get a little bit naughty with your honey. 



There are over 30 discovered beaches in Goa which are highlighted by many websites like Miramar, Baga, Calangute, Morgim (turtle beach), Candolim,  Dauna Paula, Sinquerin, Anjuna, Ashwin etc. however there are a lot many undiscovered gems if you go by google maps for instance Grandmother’s hole beach and Oxdel Beach (these are closer to the airport), these are the ones that leave you in awe. Best beaches in Goa are made popular because of the renowned shacks but the crowds that haul towards these beaches just make it quite a horrid experience. Miramar and Dona are just a big NO. Amongst the popular beaches there are certain quite places as well like Chapora beach (which looks beautiful from Chapora fort), Arambol beach (more of cliffs here and hot spring and deposits from the sea which is great for the skin). Even though we could manage to explore most of north Goa, I guess it will be worthwhile to go and explore south Goa next.




Note to the reader – DO NOT WASTE MONEY ON DOLPHIN WATCHING; rather invest in good quality water sports if you are adventurous or get a massage (must do) on the beach. You need to give yourself at least one or two days (preferably all days) of beach time, you know get the tan going, soaking in the sun, breathing in the ocean smell, that kinda stuff.




Day 2, was more of a sightseeing trip and oh boy was it worth it. Old Goa is one of the best places to explore the Portuguese culture and heritage. It is also known as Vedha (meaning 'old' in Portuguese), was created in 15th Century by the Bijapur Sultanate and it fits the bill completely if you are a history buff. Being the capital city during the time of Portuguese India, the city rests many churches and covenants from around that time. So, you can imagine the history that it holds in the 21st Century. The architectural styles being very typical of Renaissance and Baroque, which bring about intense allure to the place offering a glimpse into the past that you can soak in the present. Many places in old Goa labelled as the “Rome of the East or Golden Goa”, have been tagged by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites. The workmanship in some of the churches or the ruins for that matter is breathtaking. Magnificent and mammoth structures can be found all over the state but some important ones are Basilica of Bom Jesus, Ruins of St. Augustine, St. Catetan, Panaji church, Church of St Francis of Assisi, St . Micheals church (which was closer to our place though the others presented quite a bit of a drive yet totally worth it), Chapel of St Catherine, Our Lady Immaculate church and St. Inez church are worth a visit. 




If you are driving in Goa, I suggest you use google maps to chalk out the distances and decide what place you want to visit in an order you don’t end up wasting time since most of the eating joints close up about 3:30 pm and reopen at 7:00 pm. We really wanted to cover State museum of Goa but I guess you can only do so much. The State museum has roughly 12 galleries which feature the Christian Art Gallery, furniture gallery, sculptures, contemporary art, freedom struggle of Goa etc. which am really sad that I missed especially the sculpture gallery which hosts 4th century relics made of bronze and hand carved stone sculptures. The Numismatic gallery is supposedly a must visit for people who love coins and medals, as it holds treasures from various decades.

If you visit Goa how can you not visit the forts of Goa. There are 7 forts in totality, though we only managed to cover 2.  Forts have this royal aura which also reflect a chequered history of a place. Forts are usually of great political and historical importance and a must visit if you are a sucker for a great view. 


We could only manage visit Aguada and Chapora fort, which kind of were in the vicinity of wherever we were. Aquada fort (which means water in Portugese) is one of the best preserved forts of the Portuguese Bastion in Goa.  It was built in 1612 to protect northern shores of Mandovi from Dutch and Marathas. It still houses the central jail which can be seen if you take a dolphin ride down at the sea. The fort extends to Sinquerim beach, a very picturesque spot especially with the old lighthouse erected in the 19th century (1864), the oldest in Asia. The Chapora fort (popularly known as the place where Dil Chahta hai  was filmed), also known as Shahpur was built by the Shah of Bijapur was built to watch over Hindu raiders.



Suggest you visit Chapora Fort early morning for a spectacular view and DO WEAR SPORTS SHOES, we wore beach slippers and had to pay the price. There is so much history to this fort having rebuilt about thrice but even though it lies in ruins today the view is spectacular.




Day 3, and we were ready for an adventure. One of my pals really wanted to do Dudhsagar because it's one of the most scenic waterfalls in India but that’s like a day trip and we had loads of things already listed out.  There are close to 8 waterfalls that one can visit in Goa. We managed to do Harvalem waterfalls which is absolutely pleasing to all of your senses. In a way, Goa really reminds me of Srilanka as it has the best of both worlds, beaches to hills, just perfect really (not to forget the incredible yummy food). 



The fall is about 50 meters and apparently the best time to visit is from October to March and is convenient from North Goa . Others that are worth a visit are Sada falls, Nevtravali falls, Kuskem falls, Tambdi Surla falls and Kesarval falls which you can cover as well.




Arvalem caves, which is like a 5 minute drive from the falls, really aren’t that much so I suggest you head straight to the falls and you can spend some time just blissfully aware of your surroundings.




Enough of the history lesson now and who are we kidding, the best place to PARTY is GOA! A place is usually a happening party spot because of two things and two things only – great DJ and a great crowd, rest everything just sorts itself out. One of the best and number 1 club at the moment (as we were told by the locals) is LPK: Love, Passion and Karma.  



The view is quite nice as it’s situated aptly on water front. The place is complete with romantic terracotta sculptures. The place does get a little crowded by the end of it and they could do with a bigger dance floor but if you have some kickass company, you’ll rock it. 




There was a rotation of 3 DJs so you can continue to party till 4 in the morning as opposed to 1 a.m. Delhi time. Another upcoming joint these days is Club Cubana, again more of lounge feel. 

  
Tito’s was disappointing as ever but it did give us some good laughs. Tito’s lane is also okay depending on how and what kind of crowd walks in, it’s actually pretty okay if you just wanna chill by the beach in the shacks or at a pub with pals (free shots for ladies is a perk). There are other clubs like SinQ, Cohiba, CafĂ© Mambo, Waters beach lounge and grill which you can check out. 

Moving on to the good things in life, how can I miss shopping in Goa? I mean that has to be one of the things you just have to do when in Goa.  During peak season you can check out various flea markets in like Anjuna, Saturday Night Market or Apora Market, Mapusa Market, or Calanguate market square along with the string of many shops that you find along the road sides but I would suggest completely different things. If you are into flea market products, do go but haggle. The Tibetan market is okay in case you are looking at exotic (read highly overpriced) pieces, metal jewellery, beach dresses, swim ware, local stuff, fridge magnets, bla bla BUT what you should buy are these babies.


  1. Dry fruits and Spices – A must buy when in Goa. Cashews and spices are grown here, you can directly source it. There are some cashew sweets (yummy) that you can pick up but beware of the boxes being half empty. Goa has spice gardens and dry fruit plantations which you can visit if you want to go directly to the source.
  2. Alcohol – Feny and Port wine. Enough said.
  3. Furniture – Surprisingly, there are a lot of furniture shops in the city and they do some seriously awesome wood work. You can even pick up handmade raw wood figurines from Mapusa market.
  4. Tiles – Now I personally love Mario de Miranda’s work. And there is a special market where you can get tiles with his work or other work as cheap as Rs. 20 per tile (I so wanna buy these when I have my own place). These are hand painted tiles that are so beautiful that you just cannot stop yourself from buying. You can even get the tiles framed and use as is but they are so worth it. One of the places is the Azulejos de Goa Gallery in Panjim located in 250 year old Indo - Portuguese home, it’s very close to St. Inez. A MUST VISIT!
  5. Food- If you are a foodie and love to cook and feed people, you have to go to the Panjim local market, it’s almost like a complex with fruits, vegetables, spices, flowers, clothes, souveniors etc you name it and they have it. One of the shops there caters to us the foodies. You can pick up premade masalas, very goan ( cafreal, Xacuti, Vindaloo) etc. at a very reasonable rate and enjoy Goa cuisine right in your home.


All of this experience has lead me to strengthen my belief in the pleasures of wanderlust. It not only does wonders to your soul, it heals it. It makes you believe in living once again, being happy once again. I guess after all, it is worth it, every penny you spend on it because the return is what makes you richer, emotionally, physically and spiritually!

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